YELLOWSTONE
2014
"Capture The Moment-Relive The Experience"
With John Gilbert
On June 6, 2014 my friend Niala and I set out for
another trip to Yellowstone. This marks
our fifth trip to Yellowstone to date.
Each time we go we try to stay in a different area of the Park. This year we opted to stay just outside the northeast gate in a little town called Cooke City.
This would afford us the opportunity to concentrate our efforts in the
Lamar Valley as well as Mammoth Spring which is just south of the north gate
located at Gardiner Montana.
The first day we drove, 810.52 miles and over twelve
hours starting out at Jefferson City, Mo with our first overnight stop at Wall,
South Dakota, also home to the Badlands. Our route was west on I-70, took the
I-435 by-pass to avoid Kansas City traffic, then north on I-29 and finally west
on I-90 to Wall. Once you get to I-90
the speed is 80, four lanes all the way, and limited access and traffic. I should mention that while traveling I-90 we
did go through Iowa and it was here that we pulled off the road to capture a
picture of an Eagle nest with juveniles in it.
We made good time and arrived in Wall around 5:00pm
Mountain Time. We stopped at the
Badlands to stretch our legs and snap a picture or two. Behind us were two friends Sharon and Eddy
Tuschoff who were also headed out west to Yellowstone. We all gathered that evening for dinner in
Wall and to plan out our tour of the Badlands the next day.
At
this time of year the Badlands were plush with green grass and the colors
amazing. We have been here before when
it reminded us of a desert. This was a
great day for wildlife photographing, Big Horn Sheep, Prairie Dogs, Bison,
Meadowlarks, and the coveted Burrowing Owl.
(Figure 1).
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| Figure 1 Burrowing Owl |
Sharon has been here before
and capture the Owls so she knew just where to look for them. In years past we have searched for Big Horn
Sheep will absolutely no luck but this year was to be an exception. We came across a herd of them lounging along
the peaks of the Badlands. (Figure 2)
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| Figure 2 Ewe with lamb |
By
noon we were ready to continue to our next leg of this trip, Sheridan,
Wyoming. This is the entrance to the Big
Horn Mountains which we crossed on our first trip back in 2006 and again in
2010. We wanted to drive this scenic
route once again heading towards Cody, Wyoming.
This second leg of our trip was only 313.16 miles/5 hours 18
minutes. We had time for a stop along
the way and Sharon suggested we visit Big Bear County USA. Bear Country USA, is located 8 miles
from Rapid City, features the world's largest collection of privately owned
black bears. It is a 3 mile drive through this spectacular wildlife park
nestled on 200 acres of Black Hills beauty where you'll see black bears,
grizzly bears and over 20 other species of North American animals like buffalo, reindeer, wolves and Big Horn Sheep. This is not your typical driving tour because
dozens of adult beer are roaming freely.
No you can’t get out of your car and windows are to be rolled up. Well we lowered them just enough and long
enough to click off a few pictures. After
the driving tour, we walked around Babyland where lots of baby bears frolic in open
compounds in the outdoors. (Figure 3)
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| Figure 3 Black Bear Cubs |
We made it to Sheridan, WY with time to spare so we visited the
city and made our way to another dining experience. The next morning we began our trip across the
Big Horn Mountains. This drive consists
of 58 miles and the altitude ranges from 4000 ft. to 13,165ft above sea
level. The temperature was dropping with
snow/freezing rain in the forecast and I was anxious to make it across this
climbing, winding road with numerous switch backs before we ran into bad
weather. Well by the time we got to the
highest peak it was spitting snow and the temperature dropped down to 32
degrees. (Figure 4)
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| Figure 4 Big Horn Mountains |
It
was on this drive that I spotted a couple of Moose grazing on the side of the
road. Naturally we had to stop for a
photo-shoot. We were unable to contact
Sharon and Eddie who were behind us to tell them of our find because in this
part of the world there is no phone reception.
We continued on not wanting to linger too long in the mountains because
like I said it was cold, the temperature dropping, and lightly snowing. We hadn’t driven very far before we spotted a
small gathering of Moose in a patch of willows eating to their hearts
delight. Yep time for another stop and
another photo opt but by this time we had driven far enough down the mountain
to escape the freezing temperatures.
There were at least eight of them and they were not the least concerned
about our presence. Add to this little
or no traffic so we had this group of wildlife to ourselves. (Figure 5)
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| Figure 5 Bull Moose |
We continued our drive and continued our descent
down out of the mountains stopping along the way to let the brakes cool
off. We had a 10% downward grade and all
though our brakes did not smoke we sure could smell them. It was low gear and pumping the brakes all
the way down.
Coming out of the Big Horn Mountains we stopped at
the Big Horn Canyon Visitor Center and decided to take a detour and see the
Canyon. The area is noted for its
Canyon, Big Horn Sheep, and Wild Horses.
It also has a long and large desert type Dirt bike area. Rather large
mountains with a lot of young people putting their bikes through some paces. The Canyon was awesome with rich earth tone
colors. It was a beautiful day with
large Cumulous Clouds draped with a blue background.
We
arrived at Cody, WY around 4:15 pm and took a break before driving our final
leg to Cooke City along the beautiful Chief Joseph Scenic By-Way. This is another one of those winding,
climbing, switchback roads but not as steep as the Big Horn Mountain Road. Again due to the time of year the grasses
were a plush green inviting us for a stop or two along the way to get some
great landscape shots. The earth in this
area is a rich red and surrounded by all the green grass made for a dynamite
picture. (Figure 6)
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| Figure 6 Chief Joseph Scenic By-Way |
On June 9, 2014 we made it to Cooke City right on
schedule and checked into our motel.
Cooke City is noted for its winter sport of snowmobiling. The roads out along the Beartooth Highway are
closed during the winter. Snowmobiles
are brought in by the hundreds for rent as tourist climb into the snow packed
mountains. There were still some for
rent and we were told they would be there for a couple more weeks as the
mountains had plenty of snow left. I
considered it but opted for the park instead.
Final leg of our trip was 223.48 miles and 4 hours, 17 minutes from Sheridan,
WY to Cooke City, MT. I am not taking
into account the time we lost while stopping to photograph along the way.
Monday
June 9, 2014 we headed out into the park, destination, Hayden Valley, LeHardy
Rapids, Tower Junction and Breakfast at Roosevelt Lodge. In the mornings you will see the herds of
Bison everywhere and on both sides of the road and even on the road. They are conditioned to vehicles and
photographers but make no mistake these are wild animals and as a visitor to
Yellowstone and their home, it is imperative that we give all wildlife
space. Obey the rules and keep your
distance. If you want close up shots of
these American Treasures, than buy a telephoto lens. Remember if you cross their space and they
react to protect themselves and or their young, you may be putting them in
danger of being euthanized. We have a
responsibility to protect these animals for future generations so remember
tomorrows KYDs and Keep-Your-Distance.
We arrived at
Hayden Valley and parked next to a couple who had a spotting scope. They were excited and shared their scopes
with us so we could see a black wolf among some Bison on the side of a
mountain. It was too far away for a
photograph but I enjoyed seeing my first wolf of Yellowstone. Several places rent these scopes so the next
time I will either rent one or buy one. Hayden
Valley is a good place to see predators in action but it may have been too late
in the morning for us, at any rate it wasn’t happening on this particular day. After several hours we headed to LeHardy
Rapids. We have been to this location
several times in years past. This is a
good place to see Pelicans riding the rapids. (Figure
7)
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| Figure 7 Pelican Landing |
The park has built a very
nice walkway with several lookouts along the shore of the river/rapids. Next it was on to Tower Junction and a short
walk to Tower Falls. This is also a good
place for a restroom break and a visit to its General Store for a cool drink
and snack. We headed back to Cooke City
and yet another trip across Dunraven’s Pass and its snow covered peaks. You climb across the mountains here on
numerous switchbacks. There is an area
near its peak where the trees are black and bare from a previous fire. With snowcapped mountains as a backdrop and
snow covered grounds beneath their towering height it makes for a beautiful
photograph. Be there when the sun is on
its rise and the snow has a crystal effect and the trees look like pillars of
silver.
On
Tuesday, the 10th, we headed back into the park. Today the Bison herds of Lamar Valley had
moved to lower ground so they were close to the road, on both sides of the road
and even sparing with one another on the road.
It was a good year for calving. Grazing
among the Bison you will also see Pronghorn.
One stretch of the road was restricted from cars pulling over, parking,
or from exiting your vehicle or even hiking due to a she-wolf and cubs being
in this area and crossing the road on a regular basis. We were told this was done so as not to
stress out the mother. Needless to say
we looked but never saw her. Our
destination was Mammoth Springs to photograph the Mineral Terraces (Figure 8) as well as visit Sheep Eaters
Cliff in search of Marmot.
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| Figure 8 Mineral Terraces |
We made it to
the terraces by 10:00am so we still had good light since it was really only
9:00am by the sun. Got to love Day-Light
Savings time if you are in to early morning photography. We stopped at a ranger station and learned
that there was a Great Horn Owl nest just across the street from them in a
cluster of trees. The ranger further
stated that the parents were probably in trees near by watching over their
young which had just left the nest. With
camera in hand I began walking the area looking up into the trees. The trees were in full foliage but luck was
with me because I spotted an adult right over head on a somewhat low branch
with no obstructions. Naturally I
focused took a test shot and then began clicking away, while standing in the
middle of the street. Cars be damned I
was not moving until I had my shot. (Pictures
of this Great Horn Owl can be seen at www.jmgilbertphoto.com
Go to the “New Photo” tab click on it and then select 2014 Yellowstone.)
Next we visited Gardiner, MT corporate office, to the Yellowstone
Association: Met with the employee
manger to learn more about living and working in the park. Next year I hope to be doing just that. In
this area is just one of the many water falls that grace Yellowstone. We visited Undine Falls once again for a
photo shot. It’s great to visit this
park at different times of the year to see the many changes it goes through
during the seasons.
I want to start this paragraph off by telling you
that we stayed at the Super 8 in Cooke City,
Clean and comfortable but not outstanding. However, just next door to us and right below
our window was the “Bear Claw”, a bakery that made from scratch, every day,
fresh pastry’s, breads, and even breakfast.
Just one visit and we started out each morning with breakfast and a few
cookies and bear claws to take into the park with us. This place introduced me to Eggs-Benedict over fresh salmon. It is Wednesday and
we planned to meet up with Sharon and Eddy to visit the Upper Falls of the
Yellowstone Canyon. If you get there at
the right time and on a sunny day, usually between 9am to 11am, you can capture
a rainbow at the base of the falls in your picture. It was a short hike to the south rim trail
and a view of the falls from along the canyon ridge. Along the way we met a Marmot on the
trail.
Always
hike with a camera at ready. Yep I got a
shot of the Marmot. It was a beautiful
day with nice clouds for the backdrop.
Sharon and I decided to continue our hike to Artist Point to photograph
the Lower Falls. Eddy and Niala drove
the cars and met up with us at the end of the trail. This is a fantastic hike. Good, clean, cleared path. Trail rating would be moderate, although
there are some switchbacks that are quite strenuous in their climb. The trail travels along the Canyon on top of
its bluff. The colors are amazing with
the rich sandstone and red rock coloration.
Along the way we saw an Osprey nest on the north side of the Canyon
Bluff, lots of birds, and thank GOD we
did not meet any Grizzly along the way even though there was a sign warning
hikers of their presence in the area.
The lower falls is probably one of the most photographed sites in the
park. (Figure
9) No matter how many times I visit this location and photograph it,
I can always take another picture of this photogenic view.
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| Figure 9 Lower Falls-Artist Point |
Between
the four of us we had met a lot of photographers who were gracious enough to
share wildlife sightings they had seen or heard about. We were told of black bear and her cubs prior
to Tower Falls and a Badger den at Slough Creek in the Lamar Valley. Sure enough we got some great shots of a
Cimarron Bear and some opportunities of the Black Bear and Cubs. Traffic was backed up along the road and the
ranger was nice enough to allow us to photograph the bear and cubs but they
were adamant that we all kept our distance.
The bears had been in this area for several days going from one side of
the road to the other to feed. The
mother, nor her cubs, were intimidated by all the people are their clicking
cameras. We made it to the Badger den which was not hard to find just look for all the photographers with their big
white lenses. We too joined the group,
setting up our tripods, and spraying ourselves with some repellent, the
mosquitoes were bad since we were close to a series of ponds. Like everyone in the group we settle back for
the wait. Those who had been there all day
informed us the mother was out hunting for her young. Sure enough a couple of hours later she emerged
over the hill carrying a ground squirrel in her mouth. We were all located across the gravel road
but still she hesitated upon seeing us but quickly made her way to her den and
the family awaiting her. (Figure 10)
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| Figure 10 Badger with kill |
Thursday June 12th was another beautiful day day in the park. We worked our way back into the park and
stopped off at Slough Creek where the Badger was because Sharon had told us
that further on down the gravel road were several ponds with Yellow-Headed
Black Birds. Sure enough they were there
along with the pesky mosquitoes but we were not to be detoured from capturing
these beautiful birds on film or in our case on a digital sensor. Definitely worth the visit. As we continue
into the park Niala reminded me of an Osprey nest that Sharon had seen a couple
days earlier so that was our next stop.
I spotted an adult flying through the canyon so we set up our tripods,
got out our longest lenses and snapped on a teleconverter. While we were there shooting a family arrived
with two children one of which was a young man around 14/15 years of age. He approached me with his Nikon camera and
kit lens of 18-200mm in hand and wanted to know what we were looking out. I told him and pointed out the nest but he
was having trouble locating it. They
blend into their surroundings amazingly well.
I let the young man look through my camera to give him a point of reference. We stood here with all this big equipment yet
this young man was thrilled to be in the park with his rig. While I continue to work with this kid, Niala
struck up a conversation with his dad and learned that his dad used to be a
photographer in the military and his mom was into wildlife photography as well
shooting with a Canon and 300mm lens.
The dad was getting back into the sport and this was becoming an annual
event for the family. OK well I wanted
to make this kid’s day and since he was shooting with a Nikon interchangeable
lens camera I let him attach his camera to my tripod mounted lens. I was shooting with a 300mm with 1.4
teleconverter on it. That would give him
a reach of 420mm. Add to that his
cropped sensor of 1.5 for a maximum of 630mm.
The first words out of his mouth were WOW. After taking several pictures he thanked me
several times as did his dad. One of the
great things about photography is being able to help others, Niala and I never pass up an opportunity to
offer to take a couple or family photograph, using their cameras, if we are
near and they are taking a portrait to capture their visit or the moment. This trip was no different and we offered our
services several times, always with a grateful thanks from the subjects.
Continuing
on we stopped to photograph black bear on the road to Mammoth but the highlight
of this day was a Grizzly Bear feeding on an Elk carcass some 300 to 400 yards
from the road. When we arrived and
finally found a place to park, we began shooting a pair of Sand Hill Cranes
close by the kill. This is one of
Niala’s favorites and my first opportunity to photograph these birds. Sharon and Eddy were there and we all settled
in on a hill just off the road to wait for the Grizzly to come out of the woods
to feed. Other photographers told us he was
feeding about every two hours and it was time for him to come out. Visualize if you will about 50 people with
long lens and tripods setting on the side of the road and you can imaging the
pandemonium we were creating with traffic.
Add to this that about two miles down the road a construction crew was
doing road repairs. Well the bear came
out as did a Park Ranger who informed us that we had 15 minutes and then we
would have to leave. In that fifteen
minutes I probably shot about 400 pictures of the Bear as he came out of the
woods and made his way to the Elk carcass which was lying in a creek. (Figure 11) We concluded the day by coming upon a Coyote
feeding on his kill.
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| Figure 11 Grizzly at Elk Kill |
Friday morning Niala and I headed east on the Bear Tooth highway to photograph some very large cascades and water fall. Later that day we all got together again to hike to Trout Lake. It was an uphill hike with steep grades in sections of it. I was able to photograph some trout swimming up stream from the lake. This area is frequented by Grizzly Bears. On our way back to Cooke City we came across the Black Bear and her three cubs. The cubs were in a tree and the mother was sleeping beneath it. No good opportunities this time.
Saturday we
got up early around 5am to allow us time to have breakfast at the Bear Claw
Café prior to heading home. It was a
beautiful morning with some cloud cover and a full moon. (Figure
12) I set up to attempt to
capture the shot. During breakfast the owner’s
husband called from Mammoth and told his wife a major snow storm was headed our
way.
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| Figure 12 Moon Over Montana |
We finished breakfast and hit the
road. I wanted to get over the Chief
Joseph Scenic By-Way before the storm hit.
Half way into the mountains we saw the storm moving in. The clouds were grey and dense in their
cover. We learned from Sharon that it
was a heavy storm.
We
made it to the eastern part of Nebraska where we ran into two major storm
fronts one to our south and one to our north and both moving in the same
easterly direction as us. At one point
we pulled into a gas station just in time to avoid a hail storm. We decided to go ahead and get something to
eat when we heard on the local news that severe tornado warnings were in the
area. It got really dark but Niala
thought we could get ahead of the storm so resumed our travel. All I can say is I have a new respect for
nature. The heavens were full of energy
lighting up the skies with a vengeance.
It was another 10 miles down the road before we gave up and pull off and
got a motel for the night. We later
learned of numerous tornados which touched down in the area where we had been. The rest of our drive was uneventful and we
made it back to Jefferson City ahead of schedule. The final tally, I took 2,611 pictures and I have processed 65 of them. We drove 2,694.32 miles to and from Yellowstone and another 500 miles in the park. It took us 21.5 hours to drive from Jefferson City, MO to Yellowstone National Park.
If you would like to see more pictures of our
trip please visit www.jmgilbertphoto.com Go to the “New Photo” tab click on it and
then select 2014 Yellowstone. Thanks for stopping by and please, become a follower to this Blog.
